In a perfect world, that is the only buy you’d have to get the camera and start taking photographs. There are satisfied “extras” you will want to earn a priority, at the same time as buying A DSLR Camera. In addition to that, as you get more experienced with the technomono‘s best DSLR Camera with flip screen list and get more and more hooked on this interesting hobby, there are different accessories that you might also want or need.
1. SD Memory Cards
SD Memory Cards are usually the instrument which DSLR cameras use to record all those photos (and videos, even if your DSLR has video recording capability). The memory cards are to electronic cameras what film had been to, er, known electronic cameras. The large advantage that memory cards have more photographic film is you’re able to examine your pictures immediately, via the back part of your DSLR’s LCD and delete the ones that aren’t good enough. The expense of a single SD Memory Card will normally rely on its capacity and speed. Concerning capacity, these days, memory is commonly measured in Gigabytes (GB); the greater the GB amount, the more photographs or bigger video files (longer movie recording durations) you’ll be able to produce.
The other factor affecting the cost is very likely to be the read/write capacity. This can be measured in megabytes per minute (MB/s), such as 95MB/s. You always need the speediest dialling speeds you’ll be able to buy, as this will reduce the time it requires for every photo to be listed (written) into the memory card and previewed (read), such as if you’re looking at the images on your camera’s LCD. The write speed is the most significant, as slower write rates will require longer for each photo to be recorded into the memory card, which might mean missing photo opportunities in the event the card takes its time to free up processing capability to record the next image.
2. Camera Bag / Backpack
Once you’ve got the memory card (enabling you to shoot photos), your next priority purchase will probably be somewhere to keep your camera both when shooting it out and around and if you’re not using the camera. Some of the premium camera bags may also have more room and compartments to keep your camera and accessories arranged, as well as cool features, like quick-access hatches, that permit you to grab your camera without needing to open up the entire primary compartment. Whether you receive a satchel type bag which you sling over a shoulder or a camera backpack, depends on how you envisage using your camera.
A camera backpack, such as the Vanguard Up Growth II 45, which is exactly what I purchased, is great for people planning to increase about using their camera – the double strap design will help to evenly disperse the load on the back; a satchel may be more ideal for carrying your camera about town, to perform street photography, where you could whip out your camera from the bag in your side, without needing to remove the whole bag simply to access your camera (which you do use a backpack – I still prefer backpacks, but that is a personal choice).
3. Extra Camera Batteries
There’s nothing worse than being outside with your camera, in the groove and ripping away, when you suddenly notice your single camera battery about to die. Getting hold of an additional few batteries, for your specific brand and model of camera, will make certain you’re only sidelined for as long as it takes you to pop out the wasted battery dip in your camera bag to get a fully-juiced spare battery and slot it in your DSLR. One option is to buy the official batteries sold by the manufacturer of your camera manufacturer.
However, there is a range of third party firms who provide batteries in a more reasonable price. For instance, just one battery for your Panasonic GH4 prices #65 (US$90 approx.). I have analyzed such third party batteries and I just don’t observe any difference in functionality. I was initially sceptical about not becoming official Panasonic batteries. However you will find good third party alternatives that work nicely and therefore are far more economical to purchase. I’ve used Ex-Pro and Hahnel batteries (the prior for your GH4 and the latter for my Panasonic FZ1000), both without a problem. I’m a third-party convert when it comes to buying DSLR batteries. The money you save can go towards other accessories on this list.
However, if you would like to explore either landscape photography or long exposure photography (like mild painting, where you use flashlights and all sorts of colourful LED lighting sources to add interesting colour detail into an otherwise dull scene), you are going to want to rest your camera on a stable platform. The most convenient and functional option is the tripod – but, not any old tripod. You will want an excellent tripod, one which can comfortably take the burden of your DSLR camera (I had a comparatively affordable tripod that I used successfully using a compact camera, but when I tried using it with my own bulky Panasonic FZ1000 bridge camera, the mounting bracket wasn’t able to grip the weight and it’d droop downwards, since it had been among these side-hinged mounting brackets, rather than one that’s screwed in centrally).
Your selection of tripod will typically be either aluminium or carbon fibre. The latter will be more expensive, but more lightweight, which makes it the choice for those seeking to trek out and around with both camera and tripod. The aluminium tripods are noticeably heavier but are less costly. Along with those more conventional style tripods, I also want to highlight some unique alternatives, such as the Gorilla Pods (which have unique folding legs that can adapt better to irregular surfaces than a classic stiff-legged tripod); the Ultra Pod II (a small, lightweight tripod of sturdy plastic structure, which can be excellent for hikers. It has a Velcro strap integrated into one of those legs, which enables you to tie the tripod to items like tree branches or fence posts. This is the smallest tripod I have and it moves into my camera back.
5. Lens Filters
There are times when you need that little bit more control over the lighting that comes into your camera’s sensor than the naked lens allows. To try it, you can attach different lens filters. The most popular filters you may want to consider purchasing, all which I own, are the Circular Polarizer (screws across the lens and helps you to cut through the haze from sunlight; it also takes out glare reflected off the surface of the water, even allowing your camera to see through to what lurks underneath the water; and can help to make colours more rich and vibrant); a 10-Stop Neutral Density Filter (an ultra dark filter that enables you to make water appear silky smooth and make clouds look like they’re whooshing through the skies ); and a Graduated Neutral Density Filter Kit (it comes in 2 parts: you want to purchase the ring adapter to the particular diameter of your lens, such as 58mm; afterwards you obtain the filter kit, which typically contains a filter holder that clips on the ring connector, and a selection of graduated filters, with one conclusion apparent, which fades to dark at the opposite end, allowing your camera to expose equally for the skies and the comparatively darker components on the floor; they work best with landscape photography, whenever you’ve got a very clear line of sight to the horizon).
6. External Flash (Speedlight)
I had been initially reluctant to pay for an external flash, believing I could”get by” with just my digital camera and adjust a mixture of the Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO settings, to get the right balance of light to expose the photographs properly. However, there are occasions if you wish to properly expose for the background, while also helping to illuminate your main subject (especially when it comes to photographing people) and you can’t do this without help from the flash and ideally an external flash device, instead of the pop-up on top of most modern DSLR camera, which doesn’t do an excellent job at producing aesthetically pleasing light (the best you can do with a pop-up flash would be to learn where the controls are that turn the flash power down, so your pictures do not have that”over-flashed” look for them).
But, if you would like the maximum control over your lighting and find the ideal amount of lighting so that you get a fantastic image, particularly in low light conditions (where most digital camera sensors will fight ), you are going to wish in order to angle your flash, either by carrying it off to the side (usually pointing at a 45 degree angle to your topic ) or to be able to direct the flash head so that the light pops off a ceiling or a wall… and to be able to get this done, you are likely to want an external flash device (also known as”speedlights”).
7. Hot Shoe Adapters
If you’ve purchased an external flash and wish to move it into one side, the best option is to obtain an adapter. There are Hot Shoe Adapters that have a coiled cable running between two link sockets – one goes onto the Hot Shoe of your camera (the place where you can also mount your external flash component ) and the other end connects to a flash. On the bottom of the one that the flash is related to, there’s typically a screw hole, which allows you to screw it on a tripod, so you don’t need to juggle holding your camera in 1 hand and the flash in the other.
If your camera has wireless capability, you may also purchase a”Cold Shoe Adapter”, that is merely a tiny square adapter that you’ll screw onto your tripod then mount your flash there are no cables because you’re ready to operate your flash in the menu on your sophisticated DSLR. This is something I’m able to do with both my Panasonic FZ1000 and Panasonic GH4.
8. Battery Grip
The main reason I chose to not choose the remote cable release is that, while I do own one, most DSLRs permit you to decide on a brief time delay for before the camera takes the photo, and I find myself more often employing this attribute than bothering to connect my remote cable release. I chose to record the Battery Grip, because I find it extremely useful to be able to keep photographing for more, without having to think about changing the battery life. I have a third-party battery grip, by Ex-Pro, for my Panasonic GH4 (rather than paying the premium for an official Panasonic grip).
It is really excellent as, in addition to being able to insert an extra battery for my GH4, it also has buttons on both sides which bring up some core purposes, like ISO, White Balance, Exposure Compensation, plus an excess function button, which can be assigned to bring up the digital spirit level on my GH4. The function buttons on the side of the battery grip are helpful for when the camera top up in my tripod and I can’t see those buttons which are on the very top of my camera). The grip part of the unit enhances the general size of this camera, so it is simpler to use when handholding the camera in portrait orientation.
9. Quick Release Shoulder Strap
Most DSLR cameras include a standard camera strap, which can be nice – that they do a fantastic job at making sure you don’t drop your camera onto the floor when walking around with it. The issue, for me, came when having to take the shoulder strap off, to take long exposure photos, with the camera onto the tripod – together with the strap still on the camera, it might introduce vibration into the camera, particularly on windy days, which might ruin your photos with undesirable blur.
For a moment, when I was still relatively new to photography, I had been content to fiddle with all the strap to undo it and eliminate it, and then fiddle with it again to reattach the strap when I wished to move off to new place (but not place my camera back in the bag). However, as soon as the novelty of having this fresh, sophisticated camera had worn off, this procedure quickly turned into a tedious chore. The solution was to buy a fast release camera strap. With this, you have two fobs that you connect to the camera’s usual strap anchor points, then the strap clips in and it are just a simple two-button press to remove. This is another optional purchase, but I’m really glad I’ve got it.
10. Stepping Rings
When you just have one lens for your DSLR, then you can buy a range of various lens filters (such as the ones mentioned above; see accessory #5) and interchange them as and when needed. The problem comes when you obtain a new lens also it is either a larger or smaller diameter compared to your lens (the one which matches all of your filters). It might be a costly experience having to repurchase all those filters only so that you can use them with your new lens. Luckily, some smart person has devised Stepping Rings.
These are individual metallic rings that screw together, helping you to twist one ring onto your lens, yet another onto your preferred filter, and however many intermediate-sized rings it can take to help you “step up” or”step down” from the lens into the filter. It should be noted that it’s preferable if your lens is more significant than the screen (rather than the other way round) since, if you’re attempting to STEP DOWN out of a bigger glass, onto a smaller screen, then you’ll strike”vignetting”, which is when you see black edges around all of your images – these edges, in this case, will be the stepping rings that are getting in the way of your DSLR’s detector.